Nikon FE – Camera Review

Nikon FE – Camera Review

1280 720 James Tocchio

My eyes flitted from one glittering storefront to the next, unsure of which to enter. For weeks I’d been craving a cannolo, a Sicilian pastry with a reputation only matched by its ubiquity. These simple tubes of fried dough stuffed with sweet ricotta filling are so common that friends have labeled them “baby’s first Italian pastry,” though this somewhat dismissive nomenclature most definitely belies the dessert’s deliciousness. Sure, a cannolo may be the safe choice, but it’s never the wrong choice. When in doubt, choose cannoli.

But here in Boston’s North End, a neighborhood steeped in Italian tradition (and secret recipes) I want to pick the best cannoli. There’s the tourist trap pastry shop, which at this time of year is packed to bursting with expectant travelers and out-of-towners ignorant to the fact that the singular noun form of cannoli is cannolo- how gauche. There’s the place the locals frequent, jammed with high school kids enjoying the freedom of long, hot summer nights. And there’s the new, American-style coffee shop that seems to earn only askance looks, but is actually quite excellent.

Of course, any choice is the right choice. While not all cannoli are created equal, it’s an easy treat to get right. After ten minutes of perusing the shops of Hanover Street I decide to put off this fateful decision for later in the night. My camera’s loaded with 400 speed film, and the sun’s setting. The cannoli can wait. In the meantime I’ve got film to burn, and tonight I’m shooting a classic Nikon SLR, the FE.

Nikon FE Film Camera Review (2 of 4)

The 1970s and ‘80s were heady days for Nikon. A confluence of wise leadership, exceptionally ambitious internal development teams, and beneficial external market trends helped the brand enjoy a remarkably long period of impressive performance, and this span of time would see Nikon create some of the best 35mm film cameras in the world. Beginning with the F2 in 1971, it seemed that for the next two decades Nikon could do no wrong.

But while the success of their professional cameras had earned the brand a stellar reputation among pros, by the mid-1970s things had changed in the world of SLR photography. Amateurs and enthusiasts now populated the most lucrative segment of the buying public, and large, heavy cameras like the F2 were being outpaced by tinier models with more features. These smaller, often electronic machines (initially regarded as unreliable) were beginning to prove themselves as real workhorses. Olympus’ OM1, released in 1972, had shown beyond doubt that enthusiast shooters preferred a compact form factor, and the runaway success of Canon’s A series had irrevocably ushered in the era of electronic auto-exposure cameras for the masses. Nikon needed a camera to compete.

Enter the FM, a compact, all-mechanical, fully-manual 35mm SLR first released in 1977. This camera, an entirely new design made to incredible standards, was the first machine in what would become a robust and long-lived series of small, semi-professional SLRs. In time this range of size-conscious cameras would encompass six machines; the FM, FM2, FE, FE2, FA, and the FM3A all shared the same internal chassis and general design ethos. They were miniature, extremely capable, and masterfully crafted. And most important of all, there was a model for every type of photo geek.

Hot on the heels of the manual-only FM came the Nikon FE. Released in 1978, it’s a camera that’s much friendlier to advanced enthusiasts and new shooters primarily due to its ability to shoot in aperture-priority mode. But just because it was crafted with slightly less-versed shooters in mind doesn’t mean it was the lesser camera, on the contrary, it was as robust and exceptional as the FM before it, and the FE even offers certain features that are missing in any of the other cameras in the compact SLR series. With the FE, Nikon managed to create a camera that would be equally at home in the hands of a money-making photojournalist as it would be in the hands of a student stumbling through Photo 101, and it’s a camera equally adept today as it was in 1978.

Nikon FE Film Camera Review (3 of 4)

But let’s get through the basics before we get too deep. The FE is an advanced, enthusiast level, F-mount, 35mm film SLR. Its electronically-controlled, metal-bladed, vertically-traveling focal plane shutter is capable of speeds from eight seconds to 1/1000th of a second with a mechanical backup speed of 1/90th of second, plus Bulb mode for long exposures. Flash sync speed is 1/125th of a second. An exposure compensation dial offers two stops of over- and under-exposure adjustment, and the self-timer lever doubles as an exposure lock lever. A stop-down lever allows for depth-of-field preview as well as stop-down metering when shooting with non-AI (auto indexing) lenses. ISO setting is selectable from 12 to 3200, there’s a multiple exposure lever, and a battery check light. Film advance and rewind are manually actuated, and there’s a film memo holder on the film door.

You might be thinking that this camera’s pretty bland. After all, its entire essence was just distilled into a single paragraph. But that doesn’t tell the whole story. Not even close. The Nikon FE’s spec sheet and indeed its external appearance only hint at the greatness that lies beneath the surface. This camera is a true sleeper, one of the best cameras of the 1970s, and a machine that has the potential to be the only film camera some shooters ever need. Let’s take a closer look at what makes the FE so special.

Aesthetically speaking, it’s an unassuming camera. Lacking in garish flourishes and odd design cues, it’s a machine as reserved as they come. Back in 1978 this conservative approach to design no doubt had the FE struggling to differentiate itself within the massive field of Japanese SLRs. Put this camera next to a Pentax ME Super, Canon AE-1, or Minolta XD-11 and you’ll find little to set it apart visually. Available in both silver and black, the timeless geometry and modest proportions that may have bored people in the ‘70s now help the FE jump out from the crowd. Very few machines look this good today, and the Nikon in 2016 certainly makes a visual statement. There’s no mistaking that this is a classic, collectible film camera dripping with class and sophistication. Expect to catch photo geeks on the street peering intently to see what you’ve got, and don’t be surprised when people holding the latest DSLR want to chat about the vintage masterpiece hanging from your neckstrap.

Nikon FE Film Camera Review 22

If the FE is tantalizing to look at, it’s certainly exciting when you’ve got it in hand. Ergonomically, things are nearly perfect. Nikon’s years of experience crafting professional SLRs show, and rare missteps made in the implementation of previous cameras’ controls have been deftly avoided in the FE. What remains is a camera that’s among the absolute best in terms of usability and functionality.

The top plate sees a balanced layout of the most critical controls. Right of the pentaprism we find a large, dedicated shutter speed selector with an easily actuated Auto lock. Positioned perfectly fore of this is the shutter release (with threaded release cable socket). The film advance lever, which also serves as the camera’s ON/OFF switch, rests exactly where it should be, and when activated hangs intuitively proud of the main camera body. Left of the pentaprism we find the all-important ISO selector wheel with an incorporated locking exposure compensation dial. Atop this we find the film rewind lever and film back opener.

The front of the camera features a similarly sparse control layout. To the left of the lens we find the lens release button, while to the right we find a depth-of-field preview lever and a combination lever that controls both the self-timer and exposure lock (press to the left for exposure lock, swing to the right for self-timer). In use, this little lever is quite exceptional, allowing very fast exposure adjustment in time sensitive auto-exposure shooting situations. It should be noted, however, that when the exposure lock is activated the meter needle in the viewfinder still swings with the available light (though exposure is indeed locked).

There’s a few tertiary controls here and there, such as the multiple exposure activation switch that hides timidly under the film advance lever, and a small battery check light housed inconspicuously on the rear of the camera, but aside from these little embellishments there’s nothing here that isn’t necessary to take amazing photos. And that’s the core tenet of the FE. Nikon created a camera that has everything a photo geek could ever want and nothing unneeded. It’s a basic, yet exceptional camera, and the inclusion of an auto-exposure shooting mode makes it a much more useful machine for new shooters or photo geeks who don’t mind trusting circuitry to make a proper exposure.

Nikon FE Film Camera Review (4 of 4)

Nikon FE Film Camera Review (1 of 1)

Practically speaking the metering and auto-exposure system is flawless. The FE implements Nikon’s now-classic metering system whereby sixty percent of the exposure value is metered from the center of the frame with the remaining forty percent averaged in from the remainder of the image area. This center-weighted metering is incredibly accurate, and will only be fooled by the trickiest of lighting situations. For times like these, the 60/40 system is predictable enough that manipulation of the exposure value is a simple task. Frame the area of the image that you’d like to meter for in the center of the viewfinder, activate the exposure lock, recompose your image, and shoot.

The businesses-like viewfinder is bright and large, and of the fully-informative variety, showing enough information that it’s possible to shoot the FE without taking one’s eye from the finder. Focusing screens are interchangeable by the end-user, with the standard screen being the Type K. This features a split-image rangefinder circle surrounded by a micro prism focusing aid, and a larger etched circle to indicate the effective metering area of the previously mentioned center-weighted meter. The selected lens aperture is displayed in an optic window to the top of the image area, and to the left of the frame we find a shutter scale that displays both the selected shutter speed and a light meter readout via a separate needle. In auto-mode this swing needle indicates which speed will be chosen, while in manual mode it merely indicates a suggested speed.

This match-needle system at first blush might seem a bit primitive compared to other classic cameras’ LED displays, but it’s actually very intuitive. In displaying two dynamic needles it’s possible to instantly and easily compensate for tricky lighting, or to shoot a stop or two over- or under-exposed by simply adjusting the shutter speed until both needles rest where the shooter desires relative to one another. If there’s a downside to the viewfinder it’s that there’s no indication that the exposure compensation dial is active, a feature that would be added in 1983’s FE2.

Nikon FE Film Camera Review (2 of 3)

As the sun continued to dip below the tops of the towers in the distant financial district, the viewfinder showed its only other weakness. Dark shooting environments can make reading the displays a bit difficult, as they’re transparent and rely on available light for visibility. As the night wore on and eventually required 3200 ISO film, things became pretty tricky. The needles and speed scale blended into the brick backgrounds, and I found myself unable to rely on the aperture readout. A reminder that nothing is perfect.

Overall build quality is top level, and typical to Nikon’s line of compact SLRs. The chassis is made of a robust copper-aluminum alloy first introduced in the FM before it. Internal documents from Nikon indicate that extreme attention was paid to ensure that the electronics within the FE would be as reliable as an all-mechanical camera, but skeptical shooters worried that the FE’s electronic wizardry would fail in the field. These worries were quickly allayed as more and more shooters experienced the reliability of the FE, and time has shown that Nikon succeeded in creating a wonderfully durable machine. In my years of selling cameras I’ve never encountered a non-functional FE. That’s pretty amazing.

In my time stomping through back alleys and dipping into the basements of North End cigar shops, I never once worried about what would happen if I mishandled the FE. It’s a solid machine, and it provides a sense of easy assurance that whatever happens it’ll still keep shooting.

Dials, knobs, levers, and switches all actuate with mechanical certainty. Film advance is smooth as silk. Mirror slap is virtually nonexistent. Shutter sound is minimal. Shutter release is precise. This camera is just a pure joy to shoot, and the blending of mechanical components with electronic components creates a unique system by which we’re afforded the best of both worlds. Incredible precision grafted to technical ability- it rarely gets better than this.

Lens compatibility is nearly universal, and this ability to accept a vast majority of Nikon lenses is another area in which the FE trumps the other cameras in the range. While all of Nikon’s compact SLRs are able to shoot the brand’s newer AI and AIs lenses, only the FE features a small locking mechanism on the lens mount that, when activated, enables the user to shoot Nikon’s earlier non-AI lenses. Effectively this means that any Nikon F mount lens will work with the FE, and while these early lenses will need to be stopped down to gain a meter reading (or to shoot in auto-exposure mode), the fact that the FE can accept every Nikon lens made since 1959 is a real marvel.

This versatility opens for the shooter a world of choice in optics. Earlier non-AI lenses are typically less expensive than their newer AI or AIs counterparts, and are usually equal performers in the area of image quality. Additionally, access to more lenses means something much more important than price- that is, experimentation. The ability to shoot really old glass lets us try out long-lost lenses that we might otherwise skip, and ancient optics can imbue in our images a subtle, unique quality.

Nikon FE Film Camera Review (3 of 3)

Nikon FE Film Camera Review (1 of 3)

There’s a lot to like about the FE, and it all hints at a camera that’s nearly perfect. While later models in Nikon’s compact SLR range do certainly offer additional benefits, such as all-mechanical shutters capable of reaching speeds of 1/4000th of a second, brighter viewfinders, and other bells and whistles, the FE is still an amazing machine. It’ll do anything any shooter can reasonably ask of it, and it’s the most affordable of the range. While some of the more advanced compact Nikons can reach prices of around $400, An excellent FE will cost less than $100, which is mind-blowing.

What kind of shooter will love the FE? I see it being most at home in the hands of a real enthusiast shooter, or someone who hopes to become a real enthusiast. It’s exceptionally strong, reliable, and precise, and offers meter-assisted manual shooting that established shooters will love. With the flick of a dial it offers enough automation to allow new shooters to learn on a machine that’s truly remarkable. Factor in its incredible affordability and it’s difficult to imagine anyone regretting the choice to shoot an FE. In that way, it’s sort of like cannoli. No matter who you are, you’re going to love it. Stop thinking about it and get one.

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James Tocchio

James Tocchio is a writer and photographer, and the founder of Casual Photophile. He’s spent years researching, collecting, and shooting classic and collectible cameras. In addition to his work here, he’s also the founder of the online camera shop

All stories by:James Tocchio
  • Solid review! I’ve had my eye on the FE for a long time. I’ve got two F2s and an F3, though, so it’s been a little hard to justify. But one day I’ll come upon one at the right price and impulse will take over.

    • Thanks Jim. I’d say the FE certainly has a place even if you’ve got the pro series Nikons. It’s smaller and less complicated in a refreshing way. Hope you find one, bud!

  • Great writeup. This was my first camera, and is still my favorite. A few random things of note: You can significantly brighten the viewfinder by replacing the stock focusing screen with one from an FE2 (you will need to add +1/2 stop of exposure compensation). You can find them on ebay and other places. Also, in my experience, FEs don’t break that often, but when they do, it is usually the light meter due to a cracked FRE (a circuit board under the top cover) which will cost far more to fix than the camera is worth. Just look for another FE. Overall, the FE is a joy to use. If only Nikon could produce a worthy digital successor in terms of size, weight, and build quality (I’m looking at you, Df).

    • Great call on the Df. I had such high hopes for that camera, but it’s just so big and unfocused. Thanks for reading, my friend.

    • I have been using the “K3” – screen from fm3a in my FE’s with great result. Just don’t forget to turn the compensate.. 🤗

  • Funny to read people wax poetic on the Nikon FE’s and FM’s. My first Nikon as a wee lad in the early 1980’s was the FM. Real photographer’s at the time, I thought, didn’t use an autoexposure camera! I later bought a Nikon F and then an F2A, which was my dream camera. Today I find myself trolling Ebay looking at Nikon F2’s with the eye level prism. The height of camera beauty and build!

    I’ll throw out two cameras I never hear about any more : the Nikon N8008 and the N2000. The 8008 has a HP viewfinder and a real snap to the focus screen when manual focusing. The 2002 was dirt cheap and built like a tank. I purchased one in college as a backup camera when I heard National Geographic photographers used them as spare bodies.

    Today for a film camera I would choose an F3HP over an FE2 just for the build and high eye point finder.

  • Great review! For me the FE/FE2 is one of the greatest film cameras ever made. As you say, its design and build quality are near perfect. I prefer it over the FM because of the meter, which shows how many stops over or underexposed you are, which is pretty valuable information when shooting in manual exposure. Also, on the FE/FM, you can replace the focusing screen with the brighter K2 version (+0.5 EV compensation needed) and you may have the only film camera you´ll ever need. Personally, I like fitting a bottom case (top cases are difficult to find because the leatherette doesn’t age well) which improves the grip and handling, and protects the camera when it’s raining.

  • The original 70’s-era FM does not have user-replaceable focusing screens. Only the FE.

    • Er, you’re right. Also the FM doesn’t have TTL flash.

      • I only know about the focusing screens because I tried to change one once without success.

        • You have to be careful with the FE type focusing screens, they’re really easy to scratch even when they’re meant to be interchangeable! I’ve scrapped one recently too 🙁

          • Merlin Marquardt July 11, 2016 at 3:51 am

            It’s my understanding that the focusing screens in the FM, FM2, FE, and the FE2 are plastic and those in the F, F2, and F3 are glass.

  • Merlin Marquardt July 8, 2016 at 4:24 pm

    Another great review of another great camera! What about the FE2? Do you think it is more or less compared to the FE?

    • Thanks Merlin. The FE2 is certainly a better camera than the FE, the major reason being the massively improved shutter. Top speed raised to 1/4000th of a second, faster travel time, and an improved flash sync speed of 1/250th of a second. Additionally its light meter is improved, and the viewfinder is brighter and more informative. All this taken into account, the FE2 is more expensive, and for most people the features missing in the FE will go unnoticed.

      Next I’m hunting out the absolute king of the compact Nikons, the FM3A. Can’t wait for that one…

    • Well a FE with a K2 focusing screen (the FE2’s brighter focusing screen) is still cheaper than a FE2. The FE2 is better, it has some small design improvements over the FE, but frankly nothing major, except for the 1/2000th and 1/4000th of a second (which you’ll only need at ISO400, f/2 in bright sunlight, which means you’re using the wrong film 😉 But it happens). Oh and also the FE2 has TTL flash, if you use it.

      James, what are those meter improvements on the FE2? Thanks!

      • Sorry I meant the light meter readout in the viewfinder is improved because it shows the exposure comp via a light in the VF. Sorry for the mistyping!

  • When I got back into film photography in 2009 after a very long absence, I bought an FE and a 50mm f/1.8 off of eBay. An FE2 followed. Then an FA, F3HP, every variety of F2, F4, F5, Leica M2, M3, M4, MP, Pentax ME Super, Mamiya 645Pro, Hasselblad 500C/M, Contax RX, Leica R6…

    Beware all. The FE is the gateway drug.
    And a great camera!

    • Ha! That is quite the lineup, my friend!

    • Randle P. McMurphy July 11, 2016 at 9:35 am

      Funny I started the other way around – also after got fed up with digital after a while – I wanted to get back on “the roots”
      and bought a Nikon F4s for a few bugs on Ebay.
      The Nikon F3HP was next the Nikon F2 followed – then the Nikkormat(s) and after the great Nikkormat EL
      there was a Nikon FE still waiting for company……….

  • I’m a proud new owner of an FE. Couldn’t agree more. What a camera!

  • Hi,
    Great review, but I wanted to add a few notes. In auto the shutter goes from 1/4000 to well over an hour in the darkest shooting conditions. And if you don’t have any reciprocity issues, it’s spot on for extreme long exposures. It’s also great because if you load the film into it, inside a changing bag, you can get almost 40 shots on a 36 roll.

    I also wanted to mention the EM. An SLR of much derision, but despite having some shortcomings, has the same metering system as the FE. While it is mostly an aperture priority shooter, lacking any of the speeds but the mechanical m90 and bulb, it still shoots the same great shots, slides included as the FE. It’s also about half the weight. It’s got some polycarbonate sections, but they are possibly more durable to impact than metal. It has a similar copper duralium chassis as the FE etc. It’s is an often overlooked gem that can be had for a bargain, and is great for what it does.

  • If you want to test the long exposure and have some cool shots, pick up some agfa vista, either negatives or slides. It’s cheap enough. From what I have read, it is rebranded Fuji. I would pull the slide film a half stop for exposures around a minute to a full stop for several minutes/hourish. I would bracket initially just to get a feel. Or maybe look up the reciprocity failure chart. But the negative film, will shoot fantastic shots into the dark, with out adjustment. I have some that look like daylight.

  • Great write up, I had the choice between an FE and a FE2 this summer and got the FE2 for the TTL and 4000th shutter, the black paint and beautiful brassing didn’t hurt either. IMHO their amazing cameras, and I wish the FE2 could mount pre ai glass. It’s my go to camera when I do think want to gauge sunny 16 and just want to shoot with absolute confidence of accurate exposure.

  • A really great film camera! I have a black model and once in a while I catch a comment about its attractive design. A great review about a lesser known classic camera from the 1970’s.

  • Martin en France April 27, 2017 at 1:56 pm

    Just picked up an FE2 and am really looking forward to shooting it. My film camera of choice is the Contax 139Q which I have had from new and which still gives superb results……it dates from 1979 (I bought it in 1980). Will be interesting to see which I like best…..I am an avid collectioner of 35mm after all we can now afford all those cameras we could only dream about and at last count have around 50 or so Nikons, Canons, Yashicas……and Prakticas and old Zeisses. Thanks for this article….superbly written…..once again…..

  • Hi, I’ve just started practising photography. I have my mom’s old Nikon FE and a Nikon D70. I was taking photos yesterday, with both of the cameras, and was wondering one thing. Same place, same time, same object, but FE gives shutter speed 1/8 and D70 much faster, on AUTO mode. Would you know why? Thanks!

    • Likely because the D70 is using a higher ISO setting than the FE. ISO is sensitivity to light. If you use a more sensitive film in the FE (and set the ASA/ISO dial to match) you will get faster shutter speeds in the same light. Hope this helps.

  • Thanks! I have Fuji Velvia 50 in the FE. Yesterday it was still light, but the shutter speed was supposed to be set on 1/8. Is it so, that with Velvia 50, one is supposed to use a tripod, even in fairly bright daylight?

    • ISO 50 film is very slow. Depending on your aperture setting I could easily see the camera requiring a 1/8th of a second shutter speed. If you were shooting wide open or close to it you could get handheld shots with the right lighting for sure. It’s always a balancing act with film.

  • Thanks a bunch!

  • Strret_Stranger July 27, 2017 at 6:32 pm

    The FE is a hidden gem. I installed a K3 focusing screen years ago (Nikon FM3A). Wow! What a difference!

    Just adjust your exposure compensation to -1 stop. With whatever film speed your using. Simply turn the dial to the first notch below your desired film speed. That’s all. I’ve never had any issues with my exposure. It’s a night and day difference. The screen brightness basically improves, which improves focusing, especially for darker scenarios. Kills the factory installed model.

  • Yes! K3 screen is the best upgrade ever. I got one from Japan for under $20 (including shipping)!

  • I have a much treasured Nikon FE which I swapped a B2 focussing screen into. This is the “matte” screen and the brighter one from the FE2 (I hate split prisms ruining my view of the scene). I set +1/2 exposure compensation to offset the additional light now falling on the meter (the meter looks through the screen). My other 35mm Nikon is my F4S which I adore for quite different reasons. The F4 is a tank but the FE excels in a few notable areas:

    1. Size/simplicity. This is the really obvious one. The FE is the easy choice for travel. Smaller, lighter, still bulletproof. Less of a conversation-starter than the F4 and that’s generally a good thing

    2. It is the Night Stalker! The FE and my travel tripod just love each other. Throw away your charts and timer apps. Just plonk the FE down after dark, set a nice small aperture, pull the trigger and wait. Well, that’s not exactly right but we will get to that in point 3. The FE makes it easy to look like a hero with perfect light trail, star trail, big sunstar night shots. It just loves to nail those multi-minute or more exposures ON AUTO! I have left the FE out on nights so dark I could barely find the tripod again, nights where the auto-exposure was nearly an hour. The FE nails it always and never says “not enough light”. I love it

    3. It is the Tripod King! So, for simplicity I simplified the above sequence. In reality it is: plonk FE down, set a nice small aperture, SET SELF-TIMER, pull the trigger and wait. Why the self-timer? Because the self-timer is the other SECRET KILLER FE feature. The mirror flips UP and the exposure LOCKS at the start of the self-timer. This is useful for the following scenarios which I make use of all the time:
    a. Particularly clear long exposure shots. Just set a small self-timer at the start and your mirror is up before the exposure starts. No mirror shake to blur your shot
    b. Particularly clear daytime shots. Again, even if you are simply doing a slow daylight speed like 1/30 that you are worried could be ruined by mirror shake just set a small amount of self-timer for the mirror up feature
    c. Meter dark subjects in front of bright backgrounds. This one is great! Let’s say I’m shooting negative film with loads of highlight latitude but poor underexposure latitude. My subject has the sun behind them and I want to meter for them without the sun; or I want to meter a night scene without taking account of some very bright lights. Simply stick your hand in front of the lens and shield the bright light source so that all you see is your foreground subject and some of your hand. Now, set the self-timer and fire the shutter. Before the timer ends you simply remove your hand. The exposure will be what the camera calculated when your hand was blocking the offending light but the actual shot will be taken after your hand is removed
    d. Quick easy one-shot exposure compensation. This is a similar trick. Take the shot on auto-exposure as before. Use the self-timer as before. After hitting the shutter but before the timer runs out, change the aperture. Each click is a stop. Opening the lens will increase the exposure (one stop per click) and closing the lens will reduce the exposure relative to whatever the camera metered

    I’m never getting rid of my FE. It is the most flexible and powerful auto-exposure camera I have ever used. I love mine

  • Hi there, thanks for this article! What lenses would be best for the Nikon FE for a beginner?

    • If you’d like a prime lens, probably one of the Nikon 50mm manual focus lenses. If you’re on a tight budget go for the Series E 50mm 1.8. If you want the best quality, go for a Nikkor 50mm. Zoom lenses, take your pic. They’re all about the same image quality.

      Hope this helps!

    • You can also email me directly at I have a camera shop online and we sell plenty of great Nikon lenses. Thanks again.

    • I love my FE–so much so that when the first one I had for years (along with the attached 28/F2 that I’d had AIed) got stolen at an MMA event, I had to go get another one soon as possible (and I replaced the pre-AI 28/F2 with the AIS version).

      Favorite lenses? Yeah, a 28/F2 is totally amazing on an FE, as is the 35/F2. I don’t use a 50 a lot, but the105/2.5…sweeeeeeet. And the 180/2.8 AF has a great focusing ring for an AF lens–I used to shoot sports with my FE and that lens. Totally killer combo! Find a PN-11 ring and you can use it as a butterfly/dragonfly lens if you’re taking nature shots, or throw a 2x teleconverter on it and you’re ready to shoot daytime sports and get right on top of the action.

      You can also have loads of fun popping a 20mm lens–or, heck, the 20-35/2.8 or 17-35/2.8 zoom; autofocus lenses, but they work great–on the FE and strolling around.

      If you do use the wide-angle zooms, they are a bit front-heavy on the FE. So you’ve got to find you an MD-12 motor drive, the grip of which helps solve that problem. Heck, you should have one anyway! Slap one of those (they’re dirt cheap; you can probably easily find one for 20 bucks or less) on the bottom of the camera, and with the mighty whirrrr-chunk when you fire it, you’ll get your old-school photojournalist vibe on.

      And as others have said here, put a later focusing screen in it. I picked up one of the K3 screens for the FM3a, and it makes the FE wonderfully even more useable than before. (Also, it wouldn’t hurt to look up Jon Goodman, if he’s still around, and buy one of his pre-cut seal/mirror foam kits for the FE. Yours will likely have gunky seals and decaying mirror foam, and his kits make replacing all those bits a 15-30 minute–depending on how fussy you are about gettign rid of all the old gunk–DIY job.)

      Another tip: if your eyes, like mine, ain’t as great as they used to be, you can easily and usually very cheaply find screw-in diopters made by Nikon (the rings are made out of nice black-painted brass) to correct the viewfinder to match your vision. No need to shoot with glasses.

      All in all, the FE *might* be the most capable vintage prosumer camera out there. It’d definitely give the FE2 a run for its money (since it can, among other things, use pre-AI glass), and the only camera of the class that might be clearly a bit superior would be the FM3a. But as cheap as FEs are–they’re a no-brainer. Grab one. Today!

  • Can someone explain the deal with using non-ai lenses with the FE? I keep reading posts about having to use stop down metering but the non-ai lens I own has a coupling fork, as do all the ones I see on eBay. The FE has a coupling pin, so wouldn’t that allow the meter to know the F stop?

    • Hi pal. I’ll try to explain. The FE does not have a coupling pin to receive the rabbit ear of pre-AI lenses. It does have an indexing pin, but when using pre-AI lenses you need to push this pin out of the way in order to mount the older lenses. The aperture ring extends beyond the mount on these older lenses, so mounting them without retracting that pin is impossible. Does this help at all?

      • Yes, thank you! I somehow thought the FE had both the AI indexing pin and the pin for rabbit ears. I was considering buying an FE but I already have a Nikkormat FT2 which meters with any Nikon lens with rabbit ears, so I think I’ll stick with that. Stop down metering sounds cumbersome.

  • …”delightfully expectant europeans and out-of-towners ignorant to the fact that the singular noun form of cannoli is cannolo…”

    Who else but the Europeans would know a bit of grammatic rules of a fellow European language?

  • hello there!
    is it safe to use non-Nikon flashes on Nikon cameras like that? recently i became an owner of Nikkormat FT2 (and i looove it) but there is an issue: i have some “old” Vivitar flashes (2XX series), which have the trigger voltage up to 200V. so it’s pretty scary. i know i can not use that flashes on the autofocus cameras (especially digital), but can i use them on Nikkormat FT2 with the hot-shoe?
    greetings from Ukraine.

  • A hidden gem of a non-spec: in auto-mode, the FE will fire off perfectly exposed shots using a “hidden” shutter speed of at least 1/8000! This is easily verified with a ISO 400 film, rated at 1200, and the fabulous Nikkor-S, 50mm f1.4, used wide open on sunny day! – it’s one crazy camera!

  • I just acquired an FE, after reading various articles, and I realised that is not possible to read the meter in low light or even on daily light if that part of the screen there is something total dark… I was thinking how is possible that I have never read about it… so I was searching again and this review is confirming….
    incredible designer mistake,anyway lovely camera

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James Tocchio

James Tocchio is a writer and photographer, and the founder of Casual Photophile. He’s spent years researching, collecting, and shooting classic and collectible cameras. In addition to his work here, he’s also the founder of the online camera shop

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